The king of rock racing, the RR10 Bomber 4WD RTR, 1/10 scale rock racing rig. It is built on the highly durable full tube chassis by Axial.
The rock racer delivers optimum performance across different rocky terrains. It is waterproof and delivers optimum performance in all weathers. It really is the best as it gets. But can we make it better?
Turns out, we can! How, you ask? That is exactly what I will explain in this article today!
Upgrades and Costs At A Glance
Part | Reason of Upgrade | Cost |
Tires | Smooth performance | $25-30 |
Motor & ESC | Faster speed | $70-200 |
Servo | More power and torque supply. | $110-120 |
Suspension | Protection, smooth drive etc. | $50-100 |
Battery | Power supply, compatibility with mods. | $80-120 |
How Much Does Its Cost to Upgrade?
The entire upgrade will cost you about $360-620.
You can upgrade the Tires at $25-30, $70-200 on Motor & ESC, up to $110-120 on Servo, $50-100 on Suspension upgrade and $80-120 on batteries.
you can upgrade other accessories within $20-50 dollars.
5 RR10 Bomber Upgrades:
It comes with a 3S capable ESC and a 35 turn brushed motor. The motor has a very smooth power system including high torque deliverance for crawling.
Off the box, the vehicle is not exactly what you want it to be. I will be suggesting some parts here and there that you can throw on your buggy, just to go up a notch in terms of performance.
1. Tires
The stock tires by RR10 is the BF Goodrich Baja T/A KR3 tires and the Falken Wildpeak M/T tires. But we are interested in the stock wheels, that is the Trail Ready 2.2 bead lock wheels and the Raceline 2.2 bead lock wheels.
Now you can go for some 1.9 tires for sure. Any one from the Growlers, Hyrax, Flat Iron XLs would be nice bought off eBay.
But if you are looking for something versatile, I have for you the PitBull Rock beast II ($25-30). You can also go for Swamper TSLs. For muddy or wet terrains, I suggest you go for the TSL.
If you’re low on the budget, I suggest some Axial Krawler T/As.
2. Motor & ESC
To start off, the stock motor and ESC are the Axial 35T motor and the Dynamite AE-5L 3S LiPO capable ESC. Pretty boring right? Don’t worry, you can get full blasting torque and fats response from the ESC with the following upgrades.
If you want play with 3S, here’s a perfect combo for you: PCtech Hobbywing Ezrun G2 3652SL 3300KV Brushless Motor + Hobbywing Ezrun SC8 ESC.
At this point, I know you’re tired of listening to me brag about the Holmes Hobbies TrailMaster Sport 27T 540 Brushed Crawler Motor with a Hobbywing QUICRUN WP 1080 ESC combo. But it is that good on a rock racer! But with the same ESC, a Titan 21T works good too!
3. Servo
The stock servos in these racers is the Spektrum S614 15kg waterproof metal gear servo. A 15kg servo is good enough, but let’s get a bit creative shall we?
Some old cars may have plastic gears that get stripped off pretty easily. Plus, you want 400+ oz torque out of the servo. This is a standard for 2.2 crawlers.
Here you can use the Hitec 7950 ($110-120). It is a bit on the high-end but amazing! The Tactic TSX45 is good too! Make sure you have a compatible aluminum servo horn with it!
I have two more suggestions for you. Mind you these are better than the Hitec servo in terms of being water-resistant and waterproof respectively! These are the: Holmes Hobbies SHV500V3 High Torque digital servo ($100) and the Xpert 7000 ($115-120).
4. Suspension
For suspension upgrade, a sway bar will help a lot! Especially if you are into technical steep crawling. It will be difficult to keep the front tires planted on the ground without this. You will also lose traction on steeps.
The stock Axial sway bar is quite stiff as far as crawling is concerned. My research suggests that, the Vanquish Antirock bar ($50) would be great. Don’t forget the popular Dlux sway bar.
Trailing arms and Incision links would be great upgrades too! Because these add low slung weight along the plastic. I suggest the ones from VP!
For shocks, I would suggest the Pro-Line Pre-Assembled Pro-Spec Shocks. These 100mm shocks are amazing for rear side!
5. Battery
According to the manual, the RR10 bomber’s battery dimensions are 138 x 46 x 24 mm / 5.43 x 1.81 x 0.94 in. This will give you an idea about what size of the battery will fit.
But in terms of capacity, a 2S or 3S LiPo battery with EC3/IC3 connector will fit. This will need a compatible LiPo battery charger. And for the transmitter, you will need 4 of the AA batteries.
Here are some battery suggestions from me according to my research:
RR10 Bomber Accessories Upgrades
In the case of rock racers, or even RCs, a glitch buster is quite in trend. So you can go ahead and add one in your RR10. In this case, I would suggest a 4700uf or a 3300uf gitch buster, that is 16v and wired to the receiver. This will save you from ESC burnouts.
Now as we discussed 3S settings and a compatible ESC, you will need a few upgraded parts. These are HD differential gears, knuckles and some metal C hubs. You may also need some metal links and/or a servo horn. This is because the Axial drivetrain cannot withstand a powerful brushless motor.
Also, get CVDs for the dogbones. You may also upgrade a LED light system. You can remove the chassis from the body and replace it with something better. But I prefer the tube chassis personally. Body upgrades are always optional!
Sometimes, you’ll find shock oil being absent in the shocks. Any 35wt shock oil is okay. Get some good quality ones off Amazon.
Finally, you can get some upper body stages. But it is an advanced upgrade for rock racers.
Conclusion
RR10 bombers are wildly famous crawlers. You’d think that all these upgrades are unnecessary. But once you invest, you will realize that it makes a huge difference! These mods will increase the durability of your already enduring crawler. So for that beautiful rock crawling performance, go get your upgrades as soon as you can!
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